You will need to weigh the water phase both before and after heating and holding, and add enough distilled water to compensate for the water lost through evaporation. Anyway, the skinny on this is that BTMS-50 is better because: 1. Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet, page 1, https://www.cheatography.com/emmajane/cheat-sheets/ingredient-ratios-for-lotion-making/, Lotion and Body Butter Cheat Sheet, page 2. The lotion was very runny which worked great in a pump bottle! Im afraid I know of no such guide, but as you are discovering it is quite effective in small amounts. Remove from heat and let cool a bit, then add in jojoba, babassu and buriti oils and mix. First try and Im loving the results. Ingredients. Get out your two saucepans and spray those with IPA and wipe with paper towels. I just purchased my first bag of cetyl alcohol. It simply will be easier to ship infused hair oils if they are thick. Its a pretty groovy (and inexpensive, which is nice) ingredient . (My guess would be that it also absorbs more quickly than cocoa butter.) I want my body butter to come out creamy, I do not want it to harden after it sits, I can use ewax with the oils to make it thick and creamy, I don't want to use water in my body butter. Preservatives are added after the product has cooled because most preservatives are heat-sensitive and will be broken down by higher temperatures, making them ineffective. Im so glad you found this useful and that youre enjoying that lovely lotion . Cetyl alcohol = thickener. Many thanks. . The slip is good (especially if youre used to working with waxthere actually is slip, not skid!). We usually use cetyl alcohol in products that requires easy spreading like product used on body, hands and legs. Fats and oils are weak acids. Things are kind of slow and average from month to month. Because we didn't set out to make pit paste, deodorizing powder or DIY deodorant spray, we needed to introduce some key ingredients to keep the deodorant stick consistency stable: thick enough to apply . Thought maybe the container, although that is washed out. Spray your gloves and rub your hands together. That mixture stayed a liquid for at least and hour and slowly solidify. 1:4 is 1 gram cetyl alcohol, 4 grams olive oil. coconut derived thickener, coconut desrived sugar, coconut dervided foaming agent blah blah blah should not be allowed to be listed as ingredients anywhere in the world. double boiler (pot to melt wax) hand blender. (Oil phase ingredients just need to be melted; you do not need to hold them at 165 F. for 20 minutes, as you do the water phase ingredients.). At 14% it offers beautiful body and silkiness to lotions and conditioners, and I love it as a thickener in cosmetics where we can have thickening without the drag or tack of wax. Small white beads or pellets; its easy to confuse with other white pellets like emulsifying wax. Talk about your epic brain fart. Slight acidity is generally viewed as beneficial in skin-care products. Candelilla and carnauba waxes could work in some situations as theyre thinner/glassier/glossier waxes. So take off your gloves and sit down and have a cigarette while everything is heating. For example, Polyquaternium-10 is sometimes suggested, but it also acts as a thickening agent--so I don't know what might happen if you subbed that. When considering ratios, do we take all these other oil phase liquids into consideration? Your email address will not be published. That's one good reason to use it in a body butter, since most people seem to dislike a product that feels greasy. Thanks so much for this post. It combines lovely cupuacu butter, which leaves the skin smooth and soft, macadamia nut oil to nourish dry skin, and cetyl alcohol, which gives it a soft and lovely slip! What I did was just increase the amount some. It's really a matter of preference. Now you're all set to weigh out ingredients. Cetyl alcohol is a type of fatty alcohol having the chemical formula CH 3 (CH 2) 15 OH while cetearyl . 6% for a lotion or lighter cream. Typically any sort of tiny dot or lump in a concoction is a solid butter going grainy, BUT there are no solid butters in that lotion AND Ive never had that happen in a lotionjust 100% anhydrous products. shea is going to give you a rich, thick butter, that is quite greasy. It may be tempting to skip this step, but I strongly encourage you to do this . The slip is divine; I can massage a nugget of it into my skin for upwards of thirty seconds and it just keeps moving in the loveliest, silky manner, leaving a smooth, non-greasy finish. If you wish to use 0.3%, use 9 grams.). This is a wonderful information. Cetyl Alcohol Recommended Usage Rate: 1% - 30% to add body and viscosity to cremes lotions. 0.5-1% Vitamin E. 29%59.5% Carrier oil. Bacteria and fungi grow and flourish in such mixtures, and the product will usually show no visible sign of spoilage even when the level of contamination is very high--high enough that using the product could result in an infection. This is the most important step to prevent bacterial contamination of your batch. Recommended Usage Rate: 2% - 5% used in the cooling phase of formulation.Ingredient Function: Humectant/thickener/conditioning agent/antistatic agent.Excellent for use as a cationic conditioning agent to create moisturizing hair conditioners, thickeners, detanglers, anti-static and other hair care treatments, especially leave-in conditioners and hair masks, due to the extreme humectant (moisture booster and binder) properties provided. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on December 21, 2017: Thank You!!! Test it and see , hi marie! Recommended Usage Level. This is such detail info and I thank you sooo much for it. None of the other ingredients I suggest as additions to my body butter recipe are far outside the neutral pH range. If you needed to give a bit of body to an otherwise liquid oil serum or massage oil, this could be the way to do it. A DIY emulsified body butter, inspired by The Body Shop's iconic range. Hi Marie! Make your own body butter with beeswax. (I think it's good to spray the whole stick blender, including the cord, with IPA. 8 g cetyl alcohol; 4 drops Vitamin E oil; Cool Phase Ingredients. Please help ASAP my product are going bad. 8-23% Oils and Butters. My current recipes is 5% Emulsifying Wax and 3% Beeswax, and Ive used that recipe for months. But she still says mine is the best. Because its a fatty alcohol its also an emollient, and its one that feels downright lovely on the skin at that! I think the extra SL and glycerin were a good idea too. Cetyl alcohol also helps stabilize emulsions, but it is not an emulsifier on its own. While there are other quaternary cationic polymers (I think several), I have no experience with how they perform. It should just be cetyl alcohol. A great gift idea but please keep some for yourself! Anyways, Im rambling. . Luckily, there is no need to get out the autoclave. Sharon Vile (author) from Odessa, MO on May 19, 2018: To be honest, BTMS-50 is usually preferred over BTMS-25. I follow you on YouTube and IG. Hi! Note: This recipe is just an example of how to use the Cheat Sheet to develop your own product. emulsifying, thickening properties of cetyl alcohol and stearyl alcohol. BTMS-25 is 25% BTMS and 75% Cetearyl Alcohol. by Marie | May 11, 2017 | Quick Guides, The Basics | 92 comments. As I already mentioned lotions and body butters are germ-magnets, in which it is essential to include a preservative. I like working with the ceytl alcohol ..it is so nice in your Heavenly Cocoa LotionI have modded that recipe using different Essential Oils a few times already! I weighed the ingredients into individual glass dishes, placed each dish in a hot water bath to melt everything through, and swirled to combine before leaving the dishes to set up for about two hours before beginning the poking and prodding. 6 g leucidal; 4 g panthenol (Vitamin B5) 8-12 drops essential oil of choice (optional) Make it! 1-30% (lower amounts are typically for emulsions, higher amounts are typically for anhydrous products) Texture. It is most commonly found in shampoos and conditioners, since it can make hair feel smooth and soft. Question: Do I need Germall Plus in my whipped butter mix? Vitamin E- 0.5%. (The heating and holding is to kill germs.). On the day of manufacture, the emulsion was very glossy but after one month the difference in comparison to the other four samples . I looked at eight different ratios of cetyl alcohol melted together with olive oil, all measured by weight. Phase B - caprylic/capric triglyceride, shea butter, coco-caprylate caprate, tocopheryl acetate, dicaprylyl ether, lecithin, glyceryl stearate se, isoamyl cocoate, myrstyl myristate, cetyl alcohol. "Fatty alcohols are often found in cleansing lotions and moisturizers as thickeners and emulsifiers," says . It vanishes into the skin but never really melts. Perhaps try this recipe? It also gives the nice silky finish to the lotion as compared to steraic acid that gives a rich-thick feeling. I love your content. This is the first one that definitely begins to liquefy when set on the skin, though it holds its structure fairly well until its rubbed in. If you use BTMS-50, my guess is that you should use the amount shown in the recipe, though the body butter may come out a bit thicker. This comparison has been wonderful!! Lotions aside, after this experiment and the project thatll be out on the 29th of this month, Im really excited about the 100% oil based applications of cetyl alcohol. If you were using a recipe that did not divide the ingredients into separate phases, you would have to look up a bunch of them online before you began, to find out whether they were water-soluble, oil-soluble, or heat sensitive. Using co-emulsifiers can also help. document.getElementById( "ak_js_1" ).setAttribute( "value", ( new Date() ).getTime() ); Make it Up: The Essential Guide to DIY Makeup and Skin Care is now available at booksellers all over the world! I also have never noticed a "draggy" feeling. Combine cocoa butter, mango butter, cetyl alcohol (or additional mango butter) , avocado oil and emulsifying wax in the bowl of a stand mixer or other heatproof bowl. Whip it to the desired volume and appearance and put it in the fridge. 1% Preservative. Solid oils are oils that are solid at room temperature. Sterilization: Please ensure all equipment, containers, and utensils have been disinfected with 91% IPA before you begin. It's a so-called fatty alcohol, a mix of cetyl and stearyl alcohol, other two emollient fatty alcohols. How Much Cetyl Alcohol To Use In Body Butter? Cetearyl Alcohol: any fatty alcohol will work (e.g. The reason for the choice of soft oils and additives is given below--hopefully with enough additional information to allow you to customize your product in your own way. Emollient. Wax Flakes on the package, even though the INCI just said c.a., but that entire lb made a bunch of very different consistency products..i wasnt thrilled; then my regular wholesaler began to carry plain c.a., the righteous & wondrous, & i bought a lb & im in heaven again! Using an immersion (stick) blender, create a vortex and add the Xanthan gum. Im hoping for a lotion like consistency but its choppy. Add mango butter, kokum butter and cetyl alcohol to a heat safe container and melt in a double boiler. My GMP makes me a nervous wreck as it is--but I really must try this in the future. This one is also super solidno finger denting happening here, and running a finger over the surface doesnt cause any melting. Just bought some finally, last week. Weigh the water phase to find out how much water was lost to evaporation and use the water from the saucepan of plain distilled water (which you also heated and held) to replace water lost through evaporation. Mix thoroughly to ensure the cool down ingredients are fully incorporated into your body cream. It also helps to stabilize oil-water mixes (emulsions), though it does not function as an emulsifier in itself. Designed by Elegant Themes | Powered by WordPress, You'll need to upload them to a free image hosting service first, Raspberry Mint No-Melt Summer Body Butter, Rose & Tea Ultra-Light Conditioning Hair Balm, Strawberry Kiwi Conditioning Hair Treatment, Passionfruit Coconut Conditioning Body Lotion + Hair Conditioner, Passionfruit Coconut Matte Velvet Moisturizer, Green Tea Conditioning Hair & Body Butter. You might want to do this three or four times, resting your stick blender in between, so it doesn't overheat. Yes to both; Im actually experimenting with the second one right now It is helping reduce the skid that can come with lots of beeswax, and is creating a faster absorbing product! 4. Cetostearyl Alcohol; CAS# 036653-82-4; Cetyl Alcohol; Stearyl Alcohol. Cut hard oils with your disinfected knife. Behentrimonium Methosulphate, Cetearyl Alcohol being near the top being most interesting. Thank you Marie for such great information. Use between 2% and 6% of total ingredients for emulsifying the oil and water phazes of creams and lotions. This way you avoid damaging the more delicate liquid oils. Since this has water, any contamination will run rampant so be sure to use GMP and wear polypropylene gloves. The emulsifier (BTMS-25) is about 8.8%, rather than 7%. If you want a very "dry" feeling product, you could use only fast-absorbing oils, but the problem there is that the slow-absorbing, "greasy-feeling" oils (borage, flax, avocado) are often the ones that are extremely beneficial. I prefer cetyl for glide, but regularly use stearic for a little more thickness and the lovely white color. Reduce your butter. You could use lard or tallow, but what people usually use in lotions and body butters is mango butter, cocoa butter, or shea butter. I think it's best to just balance them. The use of emulsifying wax will do just that - bind your oils and water together on a molecular level with the end result becoming lotion or cream. If you are a math nerd, you will notice that this recipe doesn't conform very closely to the ingredient proportions shown on the Cheat Sheet. Cetyl alcohol thickens and adds body to out concoctions as well as improving slip. Her recipes for body "milk" and moisturizing "milk" cleanser contain to milk whatsoever. If 1:1 is WAY too much, then start experimenting with thinning it out. It feels silky, powdery and cut the greasy feeling completely!! You can use ordinary canola oil, sunflower oil, or olive oil from the grocery store, or fancier oils from the health-food store, such as hemp oil or grapeseed oil. And legs with paper towels eight different ratios of cetyl alcohol such guide, I... This has water, any contamination will run rampant so be sure to use the Cheat Sheet, 1... Grams. ) buriti oils and mix 4 g panthenol ( Vitamin )... 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For at least and hour and slowly solidify https: //www.cheatography.com/emmajane/cheat-sheets/ingredient-ratios-for-lotion-making/, lotion and body butters are germ-magnets, which! Alcohol having the chemical formula CH 3 ( CH 2 ) 15 OH while cetearyl nice silky finish to other. Oil phase liquids into consideration, with IPA gram cetyl alcohol to a heat container!